Comprehensive Pest and Weed Control Strategies

McCain: Ophiosphaerella korrae: bermudagrass, Seaside paspalum, zoysiagrass: circular locations of dead lawn 612 inches in size appear in spring when growth resumes; areas may coalesce to form big areas; usually impacts turfgrass more than 2 years of ages: impacts dormant plants; most severe when soil temperature levels are < 65F; endures as sclerotia and in infected roots and stolons: get rid of dead turf; fertilize in summertime to preserve vigor; don't overfertilize in late summertime; water appropriate length of time: fungicides offered however primarily prevented by cultural practices in California Summer spot in turfgrass, triggered by Magnaporthe poae.

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Nelson: Magnaporthe poae: bluegrasses, great fescues: circular, yellow or tan areas of dead and dying plants up to 1 foot in diameter; can have green, apparently healthy plants in center; roots, crowns, and stolons have dark brown fungal hyphae on them; vascular staining and cortical rot happen in later phases: high temperatures (> 85) in late spring through the summertime; most extreme when grass is mowed low or when soil moisture is excessive: aerate soil and apply slow-release nitrogen; improve drainage; reduce compaction; water appropriate length of time; don't cut too low; control thatch; decrease soil pH if greater than 7: systemic fungicides in fall generally required when disease has been serious For presently signed up fungicides, see Pest Management Guidelines: Turfgrass.

There is no one best turfgrass suitable for all yards. The kind of lawn you choose for your lawn must work with your environment, expected use and maintenance level, and visual desires; it also should have some resistance to typical diseases. Cool-season yards (e.g., bluegrasses, fescues, ryegrasses, and so on) perform best at daytime temperature levels between 70 to 85F.

Augustinegrass, and zoysiagrass) carry out finest between 80 to 95F. Often, diseases most effect lawns when they aren't vigorously growing. Cool-season grass is more prone to illness problems throughout the summer, while warm-season lawns are more susceptible to illness in late fail early spring. Strive to select a yard that grows well in your conditions.

New and improved cultivars of lawn yards offering higher disease resistance, color, texture, density, and harmony have been established the previous several years. Contact a trusted nursery or the UC Cooperative Extension workplace in your county for particular recommendations.

Turf Fungus Signs and Effective Cures

Much of California has a Mediterranean climate defined by rainfall in winter season and spring and very little rain during summer season and fall. Throughout the state, yards require watering.

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Using excessive or not enough water can result in unhealthy, slow-growing yard that is vulnerable to pathogens. Waterlogged soils are poorly aerated, which restricts root growth, promotes some diseases, and permits algae and moss to grow. In basic, a deeply watered lawn establishes a deeper and more substantial vertical root system, which provides it with greater drought and illness resistance than a shallowly watered yard.

Warm-season turfgrasses are more drought-resistant than cool-season yards and need about 20% less water. It is best to water the lawn thoroughly at longer periods, until overflow just begins, rather than watering a little every day.

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Lawn Fungus Symptoms and Effective Treatments

If a lawn requires 40 minutes of irrigation each week but runoff starts after 20 minutes, water twice a week for 20 minutes. In cases where soil takes up water so gradually that overflow takes place before 10 minutes, water cycling is essential. To cycle, irrigate until overflow simply starts, turn the system off, and repeat the process in 30 minutes before the soil surface area dries.

To identify sprinkler output, conduct "catch can tests" by setting little, empty, straight-sided, equal-sized containers such as tuna or cat food cans on top of your yard every 10 to 15 feet in between sprinkler heads operated by the very same valve (Fig. 2) and run the system for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, shut off the system and determine the amount of water in each can with a ruler to figure out the average amount of water per can.