Garden Pest Identification Guide for Next Season

McCain: Ophiosphaerella korrae: bermudagrass, Seaside paspalum, zoysiagrass: circular areas of dead yard 612 inches in size appear in spring when development resumes; spots may coalesce to form big areas; normally impacts turfgrass more than 2 years of ages: impacts dormant plants; most severe when soil temperatures are < 65F; survives as sclerotia and in infected roots and stolons: eliminate dead yard; fertilize in summer season to keep vigor; don't overfertilize in late summer; water proper length of time: fungicides readily available however primarily avoided by cultural practices in California Summertime patch in turfgrass, triggered by Magnaporthe poae.

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Nelson: Magnaporthe poae: bluegrasses, great fescues: circular, yellow or tan locations of dead and dying plants approximately 1 foot in diameter; can have green, obviously healthy plants in center; roots, crowns, and stolons have dark brown fungal hyphae on them; vascular discoloration and cortical rot occur in later stages: heats (> 85) in late spring through the summertime; most extreme when grass is mowed low or when soil wetness is excessive: aerate soil and use slow-release nitrogen; improve drain; reduce compaction; water suitable length of time; don't cut too low; control thatch; minimize soil pH if greater than 7: systemic fungicides in fall typically necessary when disease has been severe For currently registered fungicides, see Bug Management Standards: Turfgrass.

There is no one best turfgrass appropriate for all yards. The kind of grass you select for your yard should work with your environment, anticipated usage and upkeep level, and visual desires; it also must have some resistance to typical illness. Cool-season grasses (e.g., bluegrasses, fescues, ryegrasses, and so on) perform best at daytime temperatures between 70 to 85F.

Typically, diseases most impact grasses when they aren't intensely growing. Cool-season grass is more prone to disease invasions throughout the summer season, while warm-season lawns are more susceptible to illness in late fall through early spring.

New and enhanced cultivars of yard turfs providing higher illness resistance, color, texture, density, and harmony have been established the previous a number of years. Contact a respectable nursery or the UC Cooperative Extension office in your county for specific recommendations.

Is Your Lawn Dying? Identify Diseases Now

Great cultural practices consist of watering, fertilization, mowing, soil cultivation, and thatch elimination. Table 1 describes cultural practices that assist avoid particular illness. Much of California has a Mediterranean environment defined by rains in winter season and spring and extremely little rain during summer season and fall. Throughout the state, yards need irrigation.

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Applying too much or not sufficient water can result in unhealthy, slow-growing lawn that is susceptible to pathogens. Waterlogged soils are inadequately aerated, which limits root growth, promotes some illness, and permits algae and moss to flourish. In general, a deeply watered yard develops a deeper and more substantial vertical root system, which provides it with higher drought and illness resistance than a shallowly watered lawn.

Warm-season turfgrasses are more drought-resistant than cool-season lawns and require about 20% less water. It is best to water the lawn thoroughly at longer intervals, till overflow simply starts, rather than watering a little every day.

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Advanced Disease and Weed Control Solutions

For example, if a grass needs 40 minutes of irrigation every week but runoff starts after 20 minutes, water two times a week for 20 minutes. In cases where soil takes up water so gradually that overflow takes place before 10 minutes, water biking is required. To cycle, water up until runoff simply begins, turn the system off, and repeat the procedure in thirty minutes before the soil surface dries out.

To figure out sprinkler output, conduct "catch can tests" by setting small, empty, straight-sided, equal-sized containers such as tuna or feline food cans on top of your yard every 10 to 15 feet between sprinkler heads run by the same valve (Fig. 2) and run the system for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, switch off the system and measure the quantity of water in each can with a ruler to identify the typical amount of water per can.