Lawn Insect Recognition Guide for Next Season

McCain: Ophiosphaerella korrae: bermudagrass, Seaside paspalum, zoysiagrass: circular areas of dead yard 612 inches in size appear in spring when development resumes; areas might coalesce to form big locations; typically affects turfgrass more than 2 years of ages: affects dormant plants; most extreme when soil temperature levels are < 65F; makes it through as sclerotia and in infected roots and stolons: remove dead lawn; fertilize in summer season to preserve vigor; don't overfertilize in late summer; water suitable length of time: fungicides readily available but mostly prevented by cultural practices in California Summer patch in turfgrass, brought on by Magnaporthe poae.

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Nelson: Magnaporthe poae: bluegrasses, fine fescues: circular, yellow or tan areas of dead and passing away plants as much as 1 foot in diameter; can have green, apparently healthy plants in center; roots, crowns, and stolons have dark brown fungal hyphae on them; vascular staining and cortical rot occur in later stages: heats (> 85) in late spring through the summer season; most extreme when turf is cut low or when soil moisture is extreme: aerate soil and apply slow-release nitrogen; improve drain; minimize compaction; water proper length of time; don't mow too low; control thatch; reduce soil pH if greater than 7: systemic fungicides in fall typically necessary when disease has been serious For presently registered fungicides, see Pest Management Guidelines: Turfgrass.

There is no one perfect turfgrass ideal for all lawns. The type of grass you pick for your lawn must be compatible with your climate, prepared for usage and upkeep level, and visual desires; it likewise should have some resistance to common illness. Cool-season turfs (e.g., bluegrasses, fescues, ryegrasses, etc) carry out finest at daytime temperatures between 70 to 85F.

Augustinegrass, and zoysiagrass) perform best in between 80 to 95F. Typically, illness most effect turfs when they aren't intensely growing. Cool-season lawn is more susceptible to disease problems during the summer season, while warm-season lawns are more prone to diseases in late fail early spring. Strive to choose a grass that grows well in your conditions.

Likewise, some types are more heat- or drought-tolerant than others. New and improved cultivars of yard turfs using greater illness resistance, color, texture, density, and uniformity have been established the past a number of years. Contact a credible nursery or the UC Cooperative Extension office in your county for specific suggestions. Also see the publication Turfgrass Choice for the Home Landscape listed in References.

Identifying Lawn Larvae in Your Lawn Now

Excellent cultural practices consist of irrigation, fertilization, mowing, soil growing, and thatch elimination. Table 1 details cultural practices that help prevent specific illness. Much of California has a Mediterranean climate defined by rains in winter and spring and really little rain during summer and fall. Throughout the state, yards need irrigation.

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Using excessive or not adequate water can lead to unhealthy, slow-growing grass that is susceptible to pathogens. Waterlogged soils are improperly aerated, which limits root growth, promotes some illness, and enables algae and moss to thrive. In general, a deeply watered yard establishes a much deeper and more extensive vertical root system, which offers it with greater dry spell and illness resistance than a shallowly watered yard.

Warm-season turfgrasses are more drought-resistant than cool-season grasses and require about 20% less water. It is best to water the lawn thoroughly at longer intervals, till runoff simply begins, rather than watering a little every day.

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What Insects Are Attacking Your Grass?

If a turf needs 40 minutes of watering each week but runoff begins after 20 minutes, water two times a week for 20 minutes. In cases where soil uses up water so slowly that runoff occurs before 10 minutes, water cycling is required. To cycle, irrigate up until runoff simply starts, turn the system off, and repeat the procedure in 30 minutes before the soil surface dries out.

To figure out sprinkler output, conduct "catch can tests" by setting small, empty, straight-sided, equal-sized containers such as tuna or cat food cans on top of your lawn every 10 to 15 feet between sprinkler heads operated by the very same valve (Fig. 2) and run the system for 15 minutes. After 15 minutes, shut off the system and determine the quantity of water in each can with a ruler to determine the typical amount of water per can.